The Vegetarian Flavor Bible

@tags:: #lit✍/📚book/highlights
@links:: cooking, food, veganism, vegetarianism,
@ref:: The Vegetarian Flavor Bible
@author:: Karen Page

2023-08-05 Karen Page - The Vegetarian Flavor Bible

Book cover of "The Vegetarian Flavor Bible"

Reference

Notes

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the healthiest ingredients that would provide us with the biggest nutritional bang for the calorie—“superfoods” that we could easily enjoy at home: Black beans. Blueberries. Broccoli. Kale. Lemons. Quinoa. Spinach.
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it’s also important to favor dishes made via water-based cooking techniques (e.g., boiling, poaching, steaming) over fat-based cooking techniques (e.g., deep-fat frying, sautéing).
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you’ll want to make sure your diet emphasizes foods that are the most nutritionally dense, delivering the most nutrients for the fewest calories. Dr. Joel Fuhrman, the bestselling author of Eat to Live, has developed a useful system called ANDI (Aggregate Nutrient Density Index), which Whole Foods shoppers might already be familiar with, as it’s used throughout the stores. Various foods are rated for nutrient content on a scale of 0–1000, so you can minimize foods at the lower end of the scale (e.g., cola and corn chips, which score a 1 and a 7, respectively) and seek out those at the higher end of the scale (e.g., greens such as collard, kale, and watercress, all of which score a perfect 1000).
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opting for kale 100 percent of the time to fulfill your vegetable quotient doesn’t make for a healthful diet, either, despite its status as a nutritional powerhouse. You need vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients that can come only from eating a wide variety of vegetables. My own strategy is to eat “in a different country” most days of the week, which presents me with a broad range of vegetables over the course of a week or two. For example: Chinese: bok choy, broccoli, eggplant, long beans, mushrooms, snow peas Ethiopian: beets, collard greens, green beans, lentils, onions French: carrots, celery root, eggplant, French lentils, leeks, onions Greek: chickpeas, eggplant, gigante beans, romaine lettuce, spinach Indian: cauliflower, chickpeas, eggplant, jackfruit, lentils, spinach Italian: arugula, broccoli rabe, tomatoes, white beans, zucchini Japanese: edamame, mushrooms, sea vegetables (e.g., kelp, wakame), spinach Mexican: avocados, beans, chayote, chiles, corn, tomatillos, tomatoes Moroccan: cabbage, carrots, chickpeas, sweet potatoes, turnips, zucchini Spanish: green or white asparagus, piquillo peppers, potatoes Thai: bamboo shoots, bell peppers, eggplant, green beans, onions Vietnamese: cabbage, cucumbers, lettuce, mushrooms, taro, watercress
- Location 150
- diet, health, cooking,
- [note::Should do this with our kids i.e. create a billboard of flags from around the world and have kids research the cuisine of a specific country depending on the week/month.]

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Dr. Fuhrman even came up with the useful acronym “G-BOMBS” as a reminder of the most nutritionally dense foods he believes should be a part of a healthful daily diet: greens, beans, onions, mushrooms, berries, and seeds, which he has found to be “extremely effective at preventing chronic disease and promoting health and longevity.”
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One of the easiest to remember is Michael Pollan’s seven-word mantra: “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” By advising us to “eat food,” Pollan refers to whole foods—meaning we should avoid processed foods. “Mostly plants” means we should make sure that the majority of our diet consists of vegetables, fruits, whole grains and whole-grain products, legumes, nuts, and seeds. And “not too much” warns against overconsuming food in such quantities that we become overweight or obese and put ourselves at greater risk of heart disease, hypertension, and diabetes.
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ChooseMyPlate.gov offers “Tips for Vegetarians,” suggesting that they may need to give special attention to their intake of “protein, iron, calcium, zinc, and vitamin B12.”
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Vegetarians who eat eggs and/or dairy shouldn’t have a problem getting enough vitamin B12. Vegans sometimes sprinkle cheesy-tasting nutritional yeast (a great source of B12) on their popcorn and tofu scrambles or take B12 supplements.
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both iron (in beans, black-eyed peas, blackstrap molasses, broccoli, chard, chickpeas, collard greens, lentils, spinach, tempeh, tofu) and zinc (in almonds, beans, cashews, chickpeas, green peas, oatmeal, pumpkin seeds, wheat germ) are readily available via plant-based sources.
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Food is composed of one or more of three macronutrients: protein, carbohydrates, and fat.
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The Short Answer: A healthful meatless diet consists primarily of roughly equal proportions of vegetables, fruits, legumes, and whole grains (accented by nuts and seeds).
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- diet, vegetarianism, veganism,

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For breakfast, I sometimes spread peanut butter on apple slices or whole-grain toast or make a tofu scramble. I love adding beans or chickpeas to soups and even green or grain salads, and low-fat hummus is one food you’ll always find in our refrigerator. For Chinese or Thai meals, I add cubes of tofu to brown rice dishes and curries.
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If you’d like to analyze the nutritional content of various foods, visit the USDA’s National Nutrient Database for Standard Reference at ndb.nal.usda.gov or the more user-friendly site based on its data at nutritiondata.self.com. To analyze the nutritional content of a recipe or your diet, visit a website such as caloriecount.about.com, which also provides “Nutrition Grades” for specific foods.
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Dark green: beet greens, bok choy, broccoli, chard, collard greens, dark green lettuce, endive, escarole, kale, mustard greens, romaine, spinach, turnip greens, watercress Red and orange: acorn squash, butternut squash, carrots, Hubbard squash, pumpkin, red bell peppers, sweet potatoes, tomatoes and tomato juice Starchy: black-eyed peas, corn, green peas, green plantains, Jerusalem artichokes, lima beans, parsnips, plantains, potatoes, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, taro, water chestnuts, winter squash, yams (Note that starchy vegetables, which are calorically dense, should be eaten in moderation, especially by those seeking to lose weight.) Peas and beans: black beans, black-eyed peas, chickpeas, kidney beans, lentils, navy beans, pinto beans, soybeans, split peas, white beans (These also contain significant amounts of protein.) Other: artichokes, asparagus, avocados, beets, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, cucumbers, eggplant, green beans, green bell peppers, iceberg lettuce, mushrooms, okra, onions, sea vegetables, sprouts (e.g., bean), summer squash, turnips, zucchini
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Tips: I have fruit on top of my morning oatmeal, as part of a fruit or green salad, or in a smoothie. I love freezing bananas and putting them through a Champion juicer for a softserve-like dessert.
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fats that are solid at room temperature, such as butter, margarine, and milk fat, along with coconut oil and palm oil—should be minimized or avoided in vegetarian diets aiming to lower cholesterol levels.)
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I avoid adding much, if any, oil to my diet (e.g., by cooking in vegetable stock instead of oil).
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- oil, cooking, health,

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Tips: Eat something every day for healthful omega-3 fats (e.g., canola oil, flaxseeds in smoothies, walnuts in granola or oatmeal). And I do love avocados as guacamole, added to salads, or whipped into salad dressings.
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ChooseMyPlate.gov emphasizes that foods in the dairy group “provide nutrients that are vital for health and maintenance of your body,” including protein (see above), calcium, potassium, and vitamin D. However, those of us who choose to largely or entirely avoid dairy can healthfully turn to other options for these nutrients: Calcium: beans (e.g., black, kidney, navy, pinto, white), black-eyed peas, blackstrap molasses, bok choy, broccoli, chickpeas, dark leafy greens (e.g., collard, mustard, turnip), fortified soy milk, kale, nuts and nut butters (e.g., almonds), sesame seeds and sesame paste, spinach, tempeh, tofu that is processed with calcium sulfate Potassium: avocados, beans (e.g., kidney, lima, pinto), chard, fruits (especially bananas) and fruit juices, lentils, papayas, potatoes, spinach Vitamin D: egg yolks, mushrooms (e.g., portobellos, shiitakes), or vitamin D–fortified foods such as cereals, juices, and milks (both dairy and nondairy)—or simply spend 10 to 15 minutes in the sunshine every day or two, and your body will make its own vitamin D. If it’s cloudy or you can’t be outdoors enough, consider taking a supplement.
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In Chapter 2, you’ll find insights from some of the country’s leading chefs on how to do so deliciously. In Chapter 3, you’ll find a comprehensive A-to-Z list of fruits, vegetables, whole grains, legumes, nuts, seeds, and other ingredients, along with the herbs, spices, and other seasonings that best enhance their flavor—not to mention the techniques that best showcase their texture and flavor. You’ll also find tips from leading chefs on how they work with these ingredients and how the ingredients are combined into signature dishes.
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FOR THE LOVE OF PLANTS: VEGETARIANISM THROUGH THE AGES

MAXIMIZING FLAVOR: CREATING A NEW, COMPASSIONATE CUISINE

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The most common motivations fall into three primary categories: eating animals isn’t good for you (health), isn’t good for others (environment), and isn’t good, period (ethics).
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- vegetarianism, favorite, veganism, animal welfare, animal consumption,
- [note::Very succinct framing! May steal this.]

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In his 2006 book Happy in the Kitchen, Richard provides recipes for mushroom water and tomato water, which can be used as lighter, vegetarian alternatives to meat stock in sauces.
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his use of vegetable stocks, juices, and vinaigrettes in lieu of traditional stocks and sauces gained traction. “I have always been fascinated with the Mushroom Broth [made from caramelized white button mushrooms, shallots, garlic, parsley, and water] and its reduction, which, after a mere 30 minutes, closely resembles a veal stock,” Vongerichten writes in its pages, “and, if reduced further [another 10 minutes, when it becomes a syrup], a veal demi-glace that would take a day to prepare.”
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- broth, cooking,

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Rancho La Puerta in Mexico is well known for its mostly vegetarian cuisine, including a signature version of guacamole whose flavor is lightened and enhanced by the addition of pureed green peas (or alternatively asparagus, broccoli, or edamame).
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- recipe, guacamole,

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Food has long been a portable embodiment of culture and a key driver of globalization (think of the spice routes), which continues to expand the range of ingredients, cooking techniques, and flavor profiles of interest today.
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counts a long list of seasonings that her store couldn’t sell ten years ago and that it can barely keep in stock today, such as asafoetida powder, curry leaves, epazote, mango powder, pomegranate molasses, and tamarind. “These are all things that pair better with vegetarian dishes than with meat dishes, for the most part,” she observes. “Also, curries sell so much more than they ever did before, along with our garam masala mixture, and both work beautifully with vegetable dishes.
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- seasoning, flavor, spices,

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What we do in India with a plant-based diet that is different from other places is we add flavors in the beginning of cooking, before the vegetables, taking a little oil and adding cumin, coriander, mustard, cinnamon.… With an arsenal of flavorings that are easy to keep all year long, we are able to take boring greens and gnarly root vegetables and make them shine at the table and dance on your tongue.”
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- favorite, flavor, cooking,

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There’s an entire world of vegetarian cuisine far beyond the bland brown-rice-and-kale fare many omnivores still mistakenly believe defines it.
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- [note::From subsequent pages: Caribbean, Israeli, Mexican, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Indonesian, Malaysian, Thai, Vietnamese, Middle Eastern, Southern/Soul Food, Taiwanese]

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Annie Somerville has noted, “When most people don’t like a vegetable, it’s typically for one of three reasons: It’s overcooked, it’s undercooked, or it’s under-seasoned.”
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When charring vegetables, such as ramps or fennel, we roast them at 300 to 400 degrees in the oven for however long is appropriate, and it slowly changes the flavor profile. Then we puree them to create ash to use as a seasoning.
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FLAVOR = TASTE + MOUTHFEEL + AROMA + “THE X FACTOR” Taste = What we perceive via the taste buds Mouthfeel = What we perceive via the rest of the mouth Aroma = What we perceive via the nose “The X Factor” = What we perceive via the other senses—plus the heart, mind, and spirit
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Our taste buds perceive five basic tastes: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami. The essence of good cooking is to bring these five tastes into balanced harmony to create deliciousness.
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This complex subject is simplified by one fact: while the universe may contain a vast number of ingredients and a virtually infinite number of ingredient combinations, the palate can register only the five basic tastes.
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Each taste affects the other. For example, bitterness suppresses sweetness.
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In addition, different tastes affect us in different ways. Saltiness stimulates the appetite, while sweetness satiates it.
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It takes the greatest quantity of a substance that is sweet (versus salty, sour, bitter, or umami) to register on our taste buds.
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- ingredient balance,

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However, we can appreciate the balance and “roundness” that even otherwise imperceptible sweetness adds to savory dishes.
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- sweetnees,

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Sour notes—whether a squeeze of lemon or lime, or a drizzle of vinegar—add sparkle and brightness to a dish.
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Bitterness balances sweetness and can also play a vital role in cutting richness in a dish. For example, the bitterness of walnuts balances the sweetness of a beet salad while cutting the richness of the goat cheese that often accompanies it.
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The crunchiness and crispiness of a dish contribute sound as well as textural appeal.
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The temperature of our food even affects our perception of its taste; for example, coldness suppresses sweetness.
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fried Provolone slices can approximate crispy bacon in a “vegetarian BLT”)
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plant-based ingredients (e.g., lentils, whole grains, mushrooms, or frozen-then-cooked and crumbled tofu can approximate chewy ground beef, such as in tacos or chili,
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thinly sliced crisp-fried tempeh can approximate bacon, e.g., in a club sandwich).
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many people enjoy the creamy texture of milk and cream. These can be approximated by plant-based milks, such as those made from almonds, coconut, hazelnuts, hemp, oat, rice, and soy, or by plant-based creams such as cashew cream and coconut cream.
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Our mouths can also sense what we often incorrectly refer to as “hotness,” meaning piquancy’s “sharpness” and/or “spiciness”—whether boldly as in chile peppers, or more subtly as in a sprinkle of cayenne pepper.
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Our mouths pucker to register astringency. This is a drying sensation caused by the tannins in red wine or strong tea and occasionally in foods such as walnuts, cranberries, and unripe persimmons.
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The astringency of cranberries is often a welcome addition to sweeter apple and pear desserts such as pies or crisps, while a handful of astringent pomegranate seeds can add a refreshing counterbalance when sprinkled atop rich Mexican moles or Persian walnut sauces.
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Aroma is thought to be responsible for 80 percent or more of flavor.
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Pungency refers to the taste and aroma of ingredients, such as horseradish and mustard, that are as irritating—albeit often pleasantly—to the nose as they are to the palate.
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- aroma, taste,

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Chemesthesis refers to other sensations that tickle (e.g., the tingle of carbonated beverages) or play tricks on (e.g., the false perception of “heat” from chile peppers or “cold” from spearmint) our gustatory senses.
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We experience food not only through our physical senses—including our sense of sight, which we address below—but also emotionally, mentally, and even spiritually.
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When vegetarians or vegans say that they have “lost their taste for meat,” they don’t actually mean that their taste buds have changed, but that—physically, emotionally, mentally, and/or spiritually—they perceive its flavor as no longer palatable.
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How a dish looks can also affect our perception of its flavor in more direct ways; for example, the deeper the color of a berry sorbet, the more berry flavor is perceived.
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- flavor,

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timeless combinations of beloved flavor pairings—for example, apples with cinnamon, bananas with rum, rice with soy sauce, tomatoes with basil, jícama with lime.
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“People don’t really crave bacon—they crave something smoky and crispy. And they don’t really crave fish sauce—they crave that fermented umami flavor you can get from fermented black bean sauce.” —AMANDA COHEN, DIRT CANDY (NEW YORK CITY)
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- alternative proteins, favorite,

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“Most people think they want milk, cream, and cheese, when what they’re really craving is creaminess. If you sauté onions to caramelize them and puree them with vegetable stock and red wine, it mimics a creamy texture.” —JON DUBOIS, GREEN ZEBRA (CHICAGO)
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IF YOU ARE CRAVING… Craving This? anchovies (e.g., in Caesar salad dressing) Try This: capers Craving This? anchovy paste Try This: dark miso paste umeboshi plum paste
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- [note::Great substitute reference]

VEGETARIAN FLAVOR MATCHMAKING: THE LISTS

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The starting point for your creativity in the kitchen can be anything. As Sarno suggests, it often begins with the seasonal availability of a particular ingredient—such as spring’s first morel mushrooms or the arrival of pomegranates in autumn—or even the desire to cook in a particular way, such as firing up the grill in summer or warming the house with an oven-braised dish in winter. It can begin with a craving for the flavors of a particular country or region: the garlic and herbs of Provence, or the chiles and coconut milk of southeast Asia. Or it can begin with simple curiosity, such as the urge to experiment with a new ingredient or technique.
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- [note::"The starting point for your creativity in the kitchen can be anything."]

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MATCHING FLAVORS: KEY INGREDIENT   Much Higher (nutrient concentration)   Higher   Moderate   Lower   Much Lower [pro-nun-see-AY-shun] Season: The ingredient’s general seasonal peak(s) in North America, which may vary by location and climate Flavor: The ingredient’s primary taste (e.g., bitter, salty, sour, sweet, umami), plus primary flavor notes and a brief description of its texture Volume: The ingredient’s relative flavor “loudness,” from quiet to loud What it is: A brief description of less common ingredients (and/or the nutritional category, e.g., grain, legume, vegetable) What’s healthful about it: Key vitamins, minerals, other nutrients, and/or health benefits Gluten-free: Whether grains are free of gluten, a protein composite found in wheat and related grains Nutritional profile: The ingredient’s macronutrient content, i.e., percentage of calories from carbohydrates, fat, or protein, in decreasing order Calories: Number of calories per stated serving size Protein: Number of grams of protein per stated serving size Techniques: Methods commonly used to prepare the ingredient (and their general Timing and/or the recommended Ratio of ingredient to cooking liquid) Tips: Suggestions for preparing, using, and/or serving the ingredient Botanical relatives: Plant family of origin, which sometimes inspires ideas for pairing experiments Possible substitutes: In a pinch, other ingredients that may be substituted for the named ingredient (and vice versa)   Flavors mentioned in regular type are pairings suggested by at least one expert. Bold marks those recommended by a number of experts. BOLD CAPITALS mark those very highly recommended by an even greater number of experts. BOLD CAPITALS with an asterisk () mark “Holy Grail” pairings that are the most highly recommended by the greatest number of experts. Italics mark either specific dishes or cuisines that make use of that particular ingredient. “Quotation marks” mark meatless versions of typical meat dishes (e.g., tempeh “bacon”) or dishes made in the style of another dish (e.g., farro “risotto”). NOTE: Those who prefer not to consume butter, cream, mayonnaise, milk, and yogurt (e.g., vegans) can easily substitute their preferred eggless and nondairy versions of these ingredients.
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A TO Z LISTINGS